Bad Repairs

This is a bad cap job on a HD65 that was done by a professional in Savannah. And the day after he did it, he quit the shop. They sent the amp to me to get repaired because it was used by a professional player in Savannah that said that it sounded worse then when he took it in. So if you get anything like this...don't accept it. Make them use the correct caps, because this does not work.

This is a better Pic

When you think you are an amp repair guy, this is how you save on parts and the customer won't know the difference when you tell them it is repaired. HD65

If you have a original cord for your combo amp with the black plastic end, check it with a
ohm meter to see if it is bad. A lot of them are. The amp maybe breaking up or you may think the speaker is bad, just cut the old end off and put a new one on!

All very good points of interest, although I will say, in an emergency(usually my own!), I have been known to piggyback a cap or two. Usually, I'm out of something, the amp took a dump, and I NEED it tonight. The flying components-NO excuse for that. That's just butchery. I have also seen the combo cords go bad. I usually just hrow the things away anyway and make a new one. I don't usually do restore type stuff so my stuff is done with reliability in mind. I keep hunks of old hair dryer cord around for combo amps. I know, it sounds hoosier but it's great, heavy cord and it's free, since they break all the time. I even like the curly ones!

hey terry, I'm finally allowed in here, lol i have called you a couple of times, im down south in buckeye state, good news on my old hd 130 head, found a bad diode in there .. also i located a place that has NEW LM307H, and at a sweet low price of under $5.00 each, and takes pay-pall or major credit cards, i used pay-pall for the just in case thing, company is located in England, so shipping will be about 2 weeks on tracked shipping, web site, www.littlediode.com ....... it is reall, not the original ones in my amp, but these are lm307/ 2307.... now my only prob with it is the speed and intensity is not working, always had a small issue with it, i could of finished it off trying the ground pin 5/8 to the neg rail of a nte937, yeah that got rid of a lot of crapy static crackle pop thunder noise. i recommend to leave the nte parts out and get these,.. now the tone im getting from these, well from what i can remember of the original set, i think i dont have quite the amount of bass as it used to, but its been 10 years that this has been sitting around...as well, if you over drive the pre-amp its not that great of a sound, but these ic's seem to be a bit smoother on the ears and more tube like compaired to the originals, but thats only compaired between the 2 sets, not neer as good as real tube o.d. of course, but it works formore of an AC-DC style, = or - a lil on the o.d some,
can you or someone give me the numbers of the Eminence speakers that came in the 76 212 130 cab, i would love to get some to recone or find the exact replacement, and im looking to have my head cab re-covered and the grill cloth replaced for the head and cab, any tips on tolex like how or what i need, i can do the grill cloth and done a few before, im also fast learing as it comes to tools and such that grabs my interest, any lil mods as in to add a tube gain just for over drive or so, i was looking at the Valve caster and THE REAL McTUBE schematics and was wondering of making that a built in distortion mod on my amp, i do have a open spot for the 12ax7 tube for i have the db2 transistor bord in wich i replaced both the jte 1692's along with ic #8, a schematic and layout would be sweet as to where i could get clean voltage to really drive a 12ax7 with as heavy over drive as possible would be ever so greatly appreciative.

This is a relay on a GD1 board 1978
I have only sean two of these and one was missing the cover. Sigma- #60RE2-24DC

Thanks for that bit of info Terry! I owned (from new) 112RD-65 from 1978 that had the GD-1 circuit so this is close to my heart!
There was something reassuring about that relay "click" every time the button was pressed. I never had a problem with mine in the 4-years of heavy use I gave it. It was still working fine when I sold it (but I wish I still had it).
Steve