Stinky dirty 210 Sixty Five
I guess the only "brag" would be I got a steal of a deal on it! Guy I bought it from opened up his van and I could smell it from 5 feet away. "Yeah, it's got that vintage smell" he says. More like a barn. Full of animals. Have yet to fire it up due to smell and speaker issues but the purchase price allows a lot of room for repairs, if needed.
I totally forgot to take a pic of the whole amp before I started disassembling it, but added a few photos.
Notes:
-Faceplate pretty scratched up but readable, every knob's white paint is gone, input jacks clearly dirty.
-Can't tell if it's dirt or rust (or both) but the chassis is FULL of it. Going to vacuum it out tonight.
-Has relatively new JJ tubes. The caps all look to be in good shape. Have not checked the filter caps yet.
-Typical used amp purchase: had 8A fuse instead of 5A. Replaced.
-Original footswitch. Looks bad but functional (per DMM test).
-Speakers are 60W Celestion G10 but one is 8Ω, the other is 16Ω. Argh. Speaker plug missing.
- -Can anyone identify these markings on the side of the chassis?
-And is this a date code on the reverb tank?
Looking forward to getting it cleaned up, assembled, and tested (and hopefully rocking).
-hc803
(edit: 2275-65 chassis)
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11 years 2 monthsC42 and C43
In the power supply section of the schematic (lower right), look on the left side of the 3Hy filter choke and below test points F and G. That amp has had a hard life. Glad it has found a home that cares. Good luck with the resurrection. http://pacair.com/mmamps3/sites/default/files/docs/2100-130.pdf. Word of caution: Be careful with solvents. Check the pcb and chassis for hand written dates first. Record any you find and/or be careful to not wash them off. Just sayin...from experience. And yes, it's a good idea to replace all of the electrolytics. It doesn't cost that much extra.
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11 years 2 monthsAlternate Schematic
Hi William, Although for the 130 Watt model, this one is slightly more legible, but just barely. http://pacair.com/mmamps3/sites/default/files/docs/2475-130_and_2275-13… Check the 2nd schematic. Even though you have a 65 watt model, the power supply circuit components are the same. Same is true for the bias supply and driver board. As bad as they are, they're better than nothing. Like mm210 says, replace the eletrolytics in both power supplies (Hi and Lo Voltage), the bias supply and the driver board. There aren't many others after that. At some point you'll want to check the 16v zener diode voltage regulators (D4 and D5) on the bias supply. If they look burnt or the PCB looks burnt, consider replacing them too.
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I actually found a scan that mm210 put up via the googles that is a little clearer. Between that and the 130 I'm good.
Still working on getting the smell out of the cabinet & baffle/grill. Been using soapy water & brush, iso alcohol, and mean green but may have to ramp up to something more powerful.
GAWD, that IS nasty. Good
GAWD, that IS nasty. Good luck. Did the PO SAY it worked? I'd fire that one up with a limiter or a light bulb limiter the first time. Mike.