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New member with mystery 210-65

Hello All,

G'day, I'm new to the forum, thanks for having me.  I'm an Australian valve amp enthusiast and part-time repair tech and have a customer's 210-65 in for a service and re-tube. It's the first MM amp I've worked on, and it seems to be a bit unusual.  I'm asking for some help identifying exactly what this one is (export? special order? domestic US that's been modded?) as well as some advice or re-assurance on the service work I'm about to do, please?  I've been encouraged by @mm210 who I met at a different forum to share some pics and info here.

I'll describe what I've got first, and post a bunch of pics at the end. Apologies in advance, because this will be a lengthy post.

It's the 12AX7 version, with 2275-65 chassis no. placard on the inside of the chassis. There is no serial number anywhere on the amp. All transformers appear original with 1975/76 date codes and 606 manufacturer code. Original Sylvania EL34's and a pristine-looking Zaerix 12AX7.  All filter caps are original with 1976 date codes on the big ones.

The amp runs on 240V/50Hz mains, but the rear panel placards, and US-style output socket (which is still connected @ 240V) all say 117V/60Hz.  The .047uF 'Death' cap has been removed but ground switch still has mains voltage connected to one side.

The PT is stamped 1-65 but has an old (probably OEM) label stuck to it inside the chassis with "No. 5" hand-written on it and "5" written in sharpie pen on the chassis next to the PT. The primary winding wires on the PT don't seem to match the 2275-65 schematic, and the amp doesn't have a low-power function. The (broken, 250V-rated) DPDT high-low-off switch is only connected on one side (high) and the neutral mains wire is connected directly to the PT wiring (instead of also being switched as per the Australian standard and all other vintage 'export' amps I've encountered). 

There is evidence of a few component changes/mods  (caps & resistors) on the pre-amp board and vol-pot, and two Op-Amps that differ from the schematic (they're LM307T, not LM307H).  Other than that, and the unusual power switch and primary PT wiring, the amp appears largely un-molested.

The amp belonged to an Australian pro guitarist (RIP), who I'm fairly sure did some tours in the USA in the early1980's.  It was acquired by my customer about 15 years ago. My customer was a guitar student of the former pro-guitarist owner and had been playing through the amp at lessons since the mid-late 1990's. Prior to that I have no known history on the amp.

The amp powers on, and sounds fantastic, but does have a lot of hiss and hum and the tremelo isn't working with or without a footswitch or shorting plug.  I'm about to replace all 9x electrolytic caps,  re-tube and re-bias (cooler than MM service-bulletin spec). I'll also be changing some corroded input jacks, all 2W power-supply resistors, and will put a new 10ohm resistor to ground on each EL34 socket instead of the one shared between both.  If the tremolo doesn't come back to life after that, I'll play with the trem-bias pot and then replace one or both trem FETs.  I'll be replacing the power switch so that active and neutral are both switched. Anything else you MM gurus recommend I do as a starting point?  Do the rectifier diodes and zeners fail often? 

Thanks for reading through to here, and for any help, info or advice you can offer,

Scott

Now for the pics...   I'll post a bunch in subsequent messages too, so I don't exceed the site's file size limit...

 

 

 

 

Full Name
Scott Shinbones
Music Man Equipment
210-65, plus a bunch of 70’s Fenders and Fender-ish BF clones.

Member for

1 week 4 days

shinbones Tue, 10/14/2025 - 20:08

more pics

Full Name
Scott Shinbones
Music Man Equipment
210-65, plus a bunch of 70’s Fenders and Fender-ish BF clones.

Member for

1 week 4 days

shinbones Tue, 10/14/2025 - 20:12

And more pics - any ideas what these cap and resistor changes are about?  And why is one of the Op-amps sitting so high in its socket? (note- it's one of two LM307T not 'H' on the board) .

 

Full Name
Scott Shinbones
Music Man Equipment
210-65, plus a bunch of 70’s Fenders and Fender-ish BF clones.

Member for

1 week 4 days

shinbones Tue, 10/14/2025 - 20:36

More pics.  The TR-1 JFET isn't identified by type-number on the schematic I have for the 12AX7 version, but on the SS phase-splitter version is a 2N4091.  This amp has something different (51176, 619).  What is recommended and available in a TO-92 package these days to replace it with if it's bad?

 

 

 

Music Man Equipment
MM 2-10-65

Member for

11 years 6 months

mm210 Wed, 10/15/2025 - 08:45

In reply to by shinbones

Glad to see that you made it here!  You might check underneath that tag for a sn.  They may have slapped the tag over it. Feel around the tag to see if you feel it stamped underneath. OR, you could get the heat gun out and warm it from the back side to remove it in one piece. As far as amp, you would probably want to search here for IC substitutes as we had a great discussion about what subbed and even the brown dog adapters to use later ic platforms. They were made by Cimmaron Technologies. A couple of the guys went to great lengths to detail what worked the best. Let's see what everybody else has to say about the transformer. I'm guessing it was swapped after being shipped to Oz. PS- the tags I have on mine and that I have SEEN, have a cutout for the sn to show through.

Music Man Equipment
MM 2-10-65

Member for

11 years 6 months

mm210 Thu, 10/23/2025 - 08:30

In reply to by mm210

Any progress? Just an added comment, I don't remember EVER seeing switches in a MM that had screw on terminals. Leo would have had to spend extra for those and he NEVER spent more than he needed to!

Full Name
Scott Shinbones
Music Man Equipment
210-65, plus a bunch of 70’s Fenders and Fender-ish BF clones.

Member for

1 week 4 days

shinbones Thu, 10/23/2025 - 09:06

In reply to by mm210

Yeah, pretty sure the switch was an Australian adaptation by some butcher. I’ll be replacing it in the next day or two with a new one that doesn’t have a massive chunk of its casing missing.

Progress-wise, I’ve replaced all electrolytic caps except the two on the preamp board. Will be replacing those, as well as the two 620ohm resistors and two zener diodes over the weekend.  I’ll also be fitting new 10ohm 2W 1% bias-measurement (cathode) resistors to each power tube, re-wiring the 240V mains wiring and replacing all 4x input jacks before I fit new JJ 6CA7’s and re-bias (cool). Hopefully the smoke stays in!

I’ll post an update and some ‘after’ pics once it’s all done.

Music Man Equipment
MM 2-10-65

Member for

11 years 6 months

mm210 Thu, 10/23/2025 - 11:46

In reply to by shinbones

Cool. Those are nice amps, as I have one!  My 130 amp met a horrible end but I guess I could resurrect  it but why? Who the hell needs 130 watts these days.  I haven't tried the JJ 6CA7's so I'll be interested in hearing about them .  I've got their EL34's in mine as the 6CA7's weren't even OUT yet when I last bought tubes for it! Mike.  PS- I use 1 watt 1 ohm for the cathode resistors as I kept them in stock and it made it real easy to do current as it's direct read mV vs mA.  

Music Man Equipment
MM 2-10-65

Member for

11 years 6 months

mm210 Thu, 10/23/2025 - 15:42

In reply to by mm210

Kind of thinking that those changes in the middle are from trying to get it to work with a different reverb tank. MM's had some crappy tanks.  Was the tank changed? I have the charts that show what was SUPPOSED to be in there somewhere.